The Central B.C. Coast Awaits Exploration

April-May 1998

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Kathleen Blohm

British Columbia's Central Coast offers travellers spectacular opportunities to see truly unspoiled wilderness areas. This is the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest. Ferries and cruise ships have long travelled up and down the corridors of the Inside Passage tantalizing passengers with vistas of magnificent fjords, inlets, lagoons and pristine islands with white sand beaches. Bays, coves and islets seen from a distance await exploration. Sections of this diverse and beautiful landscape have been set aside as parkland. The fate of other areas containing irreplaceable natural and cultural wonders hangs in the balance.

This area contains wildlife and plants which are unique. The white Spirit Bear lives here amongst black "Grey" Wolves. We have seen a breeding pair of Sandhill Cranes. Beautiful Mountain Goats, Puffins and Osprey can be seen on the craggy cliffs. Bald Eagles and the stately and mysterious Ravens sit in trees overseeing their territory. Wolves call to one another. Bears and Blacktail Deer forage in the forest and at the water's edge. Beavers and trout inhabit the rivers and lakes. River Otters and Stellar Sea Lions fish and cavort near kelp and rocky islets.

Murres, Loons, Murrelets, Rhinoceros Auklets, Great Blue Herons, Kingfishers and Grebes are but a few of the many bird varieties that can be seen in a single day. Salmon, Halibut, Crab, Shrimp and Rockfish in many colours inhabit the coastal waters. Clams, Oysters, Limpets, Abalone, Moon Snails, Whelks and Turban Snails litter the sandy and rocky shores.

Plant life is abundant in this verdant landscape. Ancient trees provide shelter for masses of lichen and moss which add both fantastic colour and texture to the landscape. Beneath the trees, in meadows, along shorelines and anywhere even a tiny bit of soil may be found, flowers, grasses and bushes grow in abundance. Blueberries, Thimble berries, Salmon berries, Wild Currants, Cranberries and other fruit bearing plants are relished by wildlife and visitors alike. Wild Orchids, Onions and Iris surprise the watchful adventurer.

The geological formations attest to the great upheavels and land movements of the past as well as to the power of glacial scouring. Stratified outcroppings of rocks jut upward amongst the myriad of islets and rocks in the outer coast waters. In the fjords, mountains thousands of feet high arise vertically from narrow inlets with waters a thousand feet deep. Here the walls of stone often bear the marks of creeping glaciers which have smoothed the surface of the hard rock. Rocks also bear the marks of First Nations people in the form of petroglyphs and of early explorers in the region.

The Central Coast has a rich cultural heritage. Great tribal nations flourished here long before European explorers began charting and naming the land, waters and the original inhabitants. Fortunately, some of the ancient names are being restored and are making their way into our maps, books and information materials. Several museums and heritage sites offer insights into the daily lives, arts, technologies and spirituality of these peoples. Official permission is required to have the privelege to visit some locations.

The weather here can be fearsome in the Winter and quite temperate in the Summer, Spring and early Fall. The high rainfall assures good conditions for the plentiful plant and animal life found along this coast. In the Summer, the protected waters in this area provide visitors the ability to explore this magnificent landscape which is both exquisite and fragile. Great care must be taken to protect it for future generations of animals, plants and people.

The majority of this remote region is accessible only by private or chartered boat or float plane.

The Porpoise

Our boat, the Porpoise, is a classic Garden design 50-ft. pilothouse ketch with 3 staterooms. It is comfortable and elegant. We have several dinghies aboard for day exploration and two or three kayaks at the disposal of experienced kayakers. We also carry fishing equipment, crab and prawn traps for those craving seafood. Deck chairs, an excellent reference library and good music are provided for those "lazy" days. The food is great, featuring seafood and international cuisine.

Our Central and North Coast tours leave from Port Hardy (or nearby Port McNeil), Bella Bella and Prince Rupert which all have scheduled airline and/or ferry terminals.

A sample itinerary to the northern Central coast may have the Porpoise, our mothership, meeting you in Bella Bella. After a short period of settling in, we will head out and begin exploring one of our favourite areas. There are a number of culturally significant sites here. Petroglyphs and abandoned village sites of the Heiltsuk (Bella Bella) nation are found throughout this region. Wildlife abounds here as well, and we will all be on the lookout for these creatures as we head for our first anchorage nearby where we will begin our first day's explorations. Specific destinations will be adjusted according to your preferences, weather and other conditions.

To take advantage of the best travelling time, we will usually begin our morning with an early passage through misty islets and channels toward the day's destination. Join us on deck with a steaming mug in hand for incomparable views, or stay below and enjoy a leisurely sleep-in. A full breakfast will be served at an appropriate time. Upon arrival at our next stopover, you may wish to have a lunch packed and spend the remaining morning and afternoon exploring or relaxing in the vicinity of your mothership, the Porpoise. Plan to return to the boat for a great meal around 6 pm. Our menus often include the "catch of the day" for those who enjoy the freshest of local seafood or perhaps hot muffins filled with fresh wild blueberries and huckleberries. This can be a very sociable time and we encourage sharing of the day's adventures amongst all.

The evenings are long this far north, and we will have ample time to enjoy the sunsets, write in journals, read or view videos about the BC coast and its natural wonders. Our library features many books on this region as well as guides to its flora and fauna.

Amongst the many islands in this area, there are lagoons and sandy beaches within easy reach of our anchorages. These offer us the luxury of protected explorations by dinghy or kayak. Sounds of wildlife pierce the air and the fantastic shoreline is covered with trees and growth down to the water's edge. These are miniature worlds in themselves. At times we think we no longer need to look further to discover the world's most beautiful place. Of course, the lure of the next possible paradise is usually too great and we soon continue the quest for our next great anchorage. (Kayakers may wish to depart from a particular location and meet us at our next anchorage. If this is your wish, we will plan a specific itinerary and schedule.)

After five or more days aboard the Porpoise, we will return you to a departure point with airline and BC Ferry connections.

Note: In the Spring, late Summer and Fall we offer weekend cruises in the beautiful Gulf Islands.

Kathleen Blohm is co-owner and operator of Pacific Encounters