PADDLe Vancouver Island's West Coast

The following is a description of regional overviews drawn from the paddling experiences and personal website of author and Wavelength publisher John Kimantas. Jump to the various regions discussed by clicking on the map. To jump straight to the archive of Wavelength articles on Vancouver Island, click here. To find tour operators for this region, click here.

Description

Names like Clayoquot and Barkley Sound have gained a worldwide reputation as premier kayaking and recreation areas. There is surfing along Juan de Fuca Strait, kayaking in the Broken Group, whale watching in Clayoquot Sound and exploring hundreds of miles of rarely visited coast. Many consider the beauty of the west coast of Vancouver Island to be unrivaled. Hikers will appreciate the the popular is the West Coast Trail between Port Renfrew and Bamfield. Gaining popularity is the Cape Scott Trail at the very north end of the island, while a new favourite is emerging in the Nootka Island Trail. Soon a North Coast Trail will join Port Hardy to Cape Scott, crossing the north end of the island.

Highlights

The lesser-known regions provide many of the best recreation opportunities. The north end of Vancouver Island is a series of beautiful white sand beaches that stretch for miles yet rarely see a visitor. Brooks Peninsula is home to some of the most varied and numerous wildlife on the coast, including the colourful tufted puffin. Whales are found everywhere on the coast, though killer whales, gray whales and humpbacks are best viewed in the area north of Port Hardy. Clayoquot Sound, meanwhile, is most impressive for its numerous channels and mountainous inlets to explore, while the First Nations history and maze of islands and islets beckons visitors from around the world to explore the Broken Group in Barkley Sound.

Kayaking the God's Pocket region

Description: God's Pocket is the whimsical name for a small marine park composed of a few small islands north of Port Hardy. The name God's Pocket also seems appropriate for the region, which is a much larger collection dominated by Nigei and Hope islands. The area is a transiting corridor for killer whales, humpbacks, dolphins and gray whales, while sea otters and sea lions can be found in amongst the kelp and rocks. It is an exquisitely beautiful area, but somehow has escaped making it onto the radar for key kayaking destinations, despite having all the ingredients.

Highlights: God's Pocket Marine Park is just a short trip from Hardy Bay, making it accessible for even novice kayakers (though there can be some troublesome tidal currents and a crossing of Goletas Channel). Balaclava Island, though not a park, is also a popular destination. Pretty anchorages dot the area, with Bull Harbour at Hope Island the most popular and Alexander Cove at Nigei Island arguably the most beautful. The sweeping white sand beach at Cape Sutil is rarely visited, but is breathtakingly beautiful if you can navigate through Tatnall Reefs.

The complete history, ecology, attractions and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 1. The following is an excerpt.

Back in 1995, the nature of Vancouver Island would fundamentally change. The reason was the creation of numerous new parks out of the Vanouver Island Land Use Plan. One of them had the fanciful name God's Pocket. It lay off the remote north coast of Vancouver Island, and it took several few years to make it up to Port Hardy to investigate what was behind this intriguing area – a jumble of islands that earned almost no mention in guidebooks anywhere.

To my surprise, I found a paradise. God's Pocket, its associated islands, Goletas Channel – they're all perfectly suited to paddling. On a visit I had been out about eight days and had seen only one other paddling group, a tour based out of God's Pocket Resort. One morning I woke up at my camp alongside Bate Passage and heard a familiar sound – the exhalation of water from a blowhole. I took my morning tea and a seat alongside the passage as a pod of killer whales worked their way down the coast. One breached twice (jumped clear of the water, to land on its back) in a spectacular display, and I felt myself wondering – as I did many times over that week – why I was alone out here.

There are reasons. Port Hardy is a considerable trek up the coast. And the weather tends to be far more harsh than areas like the sunny Gulf Islands of southern Vancouver Island. But the real reason is it's undiscovered.

I've been back several times since. On the last visit I paddled with orcas in Hardy Bay, with gray whales off Mexicana Point and with sea lions and birds everywhere. I caught remarkable sunsets on picture-perfect beaches. I even had sunshine. And yet I would see no other kayakers. Novice to veteran paddlers will find reason to enjoy these shores – if they are among the few to take the time.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking the Cape Scott region

Description: One might easily have an image of the north coast of Vancouver Island as a weather-beaten, desolate place. In actuality it is a series of long stretches of beautiful stand beaches broken by expansive and reef-strewn rock headlands. Only small portions are currently accessible by land. Those are the northwest beaches at Nels Bight, Nissen Cove, Guise Bayand San Josef Bay. San Josef Bay is the most easily reached, while the other areas must be reached by boat or foot via the Cape Scott Trail. A new development is the North Coast Trail, which will link Port Hardy to the Cape Scott Trail. This will undoubtedly have the North Coast Trail rivalling the West Coast Trail for both popularity and beauty.

Highlights: All the major bays and bights have sweeping white sand beaches worth exploring, though Nissen Bight, Guise Bay and San Josef Bay are standouts. Most crowds from the Cape Scott Trail tend to congregate at Nels Bight. A difficult trail leads to Lowrie Bay. At the head of Hansen Lagoon are the remains of the old Cape Scott settlement, a turn-of-the-century Danish community abandoned due to the remote and harsh conditions here. Some ruins are still visible. Visiting the lighthouse at Cape Scott marks the end of the Cape Scott Trail, while rounding it by water is considered a badge of honour among mariners and kayakers alike due to the potentially dangerous currents and weather conditions. Raft Cove is accessible by trail, with beachfront camping possible along the expansive sand at the oceanfront. It is a difficult but rewarding place to visit by paddle.

The complete history, ecology, attractions and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 2. The following is an excerpt.

I had no idea what to expect the first time I visited the north shore of Vancouver Island . I pictured a barren, dangerous stretch of ocean with reefs, rocky shorelines and little respite from the harsh weather. When I finally visited I found the reefs were there, of course, and rocky headlands, but when I set foot on Shuttleworth Bight it was hard to believe I was the only person on such a grand beach. Of course, few others could even hope to get here. With no road access or trails, only kayaks or small boats could visit.

I've made the trip back many times since, the last in 2004. There's a sense of accomplishment in rounding Cape Sutil and leaving civilization behind. The swell breaking on reefs can be intimidating, but the stretches of open water between the bights are fairly short. The rewards are seclusion, unbelievable wildlife and unforgettable scenery. If you make it as far as Nels Bight you can also hike to intriguing pioneer remnants and to the lighthouse at Cape Scott .

There can be a downside. I have spent days huddled in a tent waiting out storms at Guise Bay and Lowrie Bay . I have been pummelled by waves and weather at Cape Scott and Cape Russell . This can be a dangerous and forbidding stretch, but it is certainly nothing like the image I conjured up. It may be that very intimidating mystique keeps others away. Personally, I won't complain.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking Quatsino Sound

Description: Low rolling hills and long inlets with few camping opportunities - it doesn't paint a great picture for making Quatsino Sound a holiday destination. However, it does have its appeal, from the boardwalk community of Winter Harbour to the six-gill sharks that frequent Drake Island. Many areas of Quatsino Sound are easily accessible, as Coal Harbour and Rupert Arm lie quite close to the Island Highway while Port Alice is accessible by a paved road. Winter Harbour can also be visited by vehicle, if you don't mind the wear-and-tear on your vehicle from the lengthy drive along logging roads.

Highlights:The islands around Drake Island and the passage through Quatsino Narrows are both intriguing areas, while Varney Bay offers a chance to explore a miniature canyon up the Marble River. Quatsino Provincial Park has some pretty waterfront to explore as well. The highlight, though, has to be the outer coast at Restless Bight, where reefs make paddling treacherous but the scenery and beaches make it worthwhile.

The complete history, ecology, attractions and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 3.

Kayaking Brooks Peninsula

Description: Exotic wildlife, stunningly wild scenery, beautiful beaches and the good chance of perfect seclusion. This is a kayaking paradise. Brooks Peninsula is a formidable barrier to cross, prone to storms and strong winds. If you catch it at a good time, though, it can be one of the most rewarding areas on the B.C. coast. Expect lots of whales and other wildlife. You're also likely to see numerous tufted puffins and sea otters here.

Highlights: North of Brooks Peninsula, Kwakiutl-Lawn Point Provincial Park offers unique topography to explore. The nearby islands and shoreline are equally rich in features, especially bird life. Solander Island, off Cape Cook, is one of the key seabird breeding locations on the B.C. coast, notable for its tufted puffin population. Columbia Cove and its nearby beaches make a great area to explore, while the Bunsby Islands and Checleset Bay earned fame for being the location of the return of sea otters to the Vancouver Island coast. They are now thriving.

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 4. The following is an excerpt.

Every kayaker has a story about their most wonderful experience on the water. Mine is Brooks Peninsula. From the moment I rounded the reefs to reach Kwakiult Point, I knew this area was magical. The trip around Brooks Peninsula was a crossing I was dreading. In the end, it was the most spectacular day of kayaking I've had. The sun was shining, the surf was low and the wildlife was a parade. The morning started with a humpback whale jumping in front of my kayak near Guilliams Island , and it only got better from there. Gray whales dotted the ocean between Cape Cook and Clerke Point. At one point two surfaced side-by-side so close to the front of my kayak I'm surprised I wasn't hit; you couldn't have shoehorned the one any tighter between my kayak and the other whale. The low swell that day allowed a thorough exploration of Solander Island , one of the most intriguing spots on the coast. Lunch was at Nordstrum Creek, and my only regret is not camping there to extend this incredible journey.

I was lucky; later that summer a group spent at least five days waiting for good weather to make the crossing around the peninsula. But from my perspective, it's worth the wait, and even if you can't make it, worth the try.

Equally magical are the Bunsby Islands and the Mission Group Islands . Most kayakers congregate around Spring Island , with only an adventurous few making it as far as Columbia Cove. The reason, of course, is to avoid the open coast. Yes, there are some risks, but they are minimal if the proper precautions are taken, and the rewards – well, what is the perfect day of paddling worth to you?

- John Kimantas

Kayaking Kyuquot Sound

Description and highlights: Kyuquot is the smallest of the five main sounds on Vancouver Island, but it is rich in features. Most kayakers tend to head toward the Mission Group Islands. The tiny community of Kyuquot is the northernmost on the outer Vancouver Island coast. Both Kashutl and Tahsish Inlet offer scenic locations to explore, with Tahsish-Kwois Provincial Park protecting a huge but rarely visited portion of Vancouver Island. A beautiful place to explore is Rugged Point Provincial Park, which earned my vote as having the best beach on Vancouver Island. Considering the competition,that's saying a lot!

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 5. The following is an excerpt.

When I arrived at the Mission Group Islands in 2003, I was running short of propane and hoped the folks at the tour camp at Spring Island might have a spare cannister; otherwise the nearest shopping would be in Tofino, several weeks away. They didn't have one, but offered to pick up a couple for me in Courtenay. One of the guides was making the trip and would be back in a few days. The delay allowed me the chance to leisurely explore the inlets of Kyuquot Sound before returning.

I had mixed feelings returning to inlets after so much time on the open coast. The buzz of motorboats, the tame shorelines, the comparative lack of wildlife – it didn't interest me as much as the outer waters. But I have fond memories of that visit: an aborted attempt to swim in Jansen Lake (I stopped at the wrong creek and hiked in looking for a lake that wasn't there); discovering a hidden waterfall at a make-shift campsite in Tahsish Inlet; watching dozens of eagles flying overhead in Centre Cove; stopping at the ruins of a whaling station and sharing the beach with a bear; and the highlight, discovering the incredible beauty of Rugged Point Provincial Park.

One day I'll return to paddle up Tahsish River ; I know an adventure awaits deep inside Tahsish-Kwois Provincial Park . And one day when I need a break in the sand and the surf, I'll return to Rugged Point. The park is one of those truly special places that makes the west coast of Vancouver Island one of the finest destinations in the world.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking Nookta Island

Description: A variety of channels surround the north and east sides of Nootka Island, providing an opportunity to explore the region in sheltered waters. Road access is possible to both Zeballos on the north end of Zeballos Inlet and Tahsis. Two provincial parks are set on the northwest outskirts of Nootka Island: Catala Island Marine Park and Nuchatlitz Provincial Park. The historic First Nation communtiy of Yuquot is located on the southern tip of Nootka Island alongside Santa Boca Provincial Park. Two other tiny communities, Esperanza and Ceepeecee, are located on Hecate Channel between Zeballos and Tahsis inlets. A run down the outside of Nootka Island is a challenging but rewarding experience.

Highlights: The inner passages can be pleasant enough, but on the outer coast the scenery is most interesting. Catala and Nuchatlitz parks are both popular kayaking destinations, while Nuchatlitz Inlet is a relatively untouched example of a coastal inlet. You'll find very little traffic as you travel deep into Nootka Island. Meanwhile, hikers transiting the Nookta Trail can be dropped off by plane at Louie Bay for a walk down the coast to Yuquot. A scenic highlight is Calvin Falls. At Yuquot is a historic church and the chance to rent rustic cabins.

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 6. The following is an excerpt.

Nootka Island is two very different worlds. On my trip down the coast in 2003 I turned the corner at Tatchu Point and paddled to Catala Island to find more kayakers than I had in the previous eight weeks along the north coast. Recreational boat traffic was like gnats in Gillam Channel and down Esperanza Inlet . I could count five fish farms in sight from one point in Hecate Channel.

And then I turned another corner, and entered Nuchatlitz Inlet. It was like civilization melted away again. I felt the closest I had been yet to an inlet that had yet to be touched by civilization. This sense of undisturbed isoation can be found in numerous points around Nootka Island : where Espinosa and Little Espinosa inlets meet; at the former native village site of Ehatisaht; in Tahsis Narows; and naturally, down the outer coast of Nootka Island .

I had been warned against taking the outer route due to the danger. Sure, my GPS had quit working at Grant Bay . Yes, a portion of the islands are off the charts. Of course, my rudder cable snapped in mid trip so I couldn't track straight. Naturally minutes later a heavy fog bank obscured all trace of shore. And the trip wouldn't be complete without a choppy odd-angled swell knocking me off course with every wave so I couldn't keep a compass heading as I neared reef-strewn Bajo Point and Tsarksis.

But I wouldn't trade the experience for anything: running huge swell off Ferrer Point. Enjoying the sun and water on the endless beach at Calvin Falls . Passing numerous sea caves and cliff fronts at Maquinna Cove. And the overwhelming feeling of accomplishment in having run the coast. Once again.

Nootka Island is a powerful, intoxicating and wild place that can be felt even in passages like Tahsis Narrows and campsites such as Garden Point. The history of the Nuu-chah-nulth warriors and whalers almost echoes off the mountainsides with each stroke of the paddle. It's a world made for kayaks.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking Nookta Sound

Description: Nootka Sound is a place of history, rivaling Clayoquot Sound as a travel destination.The downside to the sound is it is more developed than many other areas of the coast with floating resorts, fish farms and logging, but a sprinkling of wilderness areas allows the charm of the sound to win out.

Highlights:.Bligh Island Marine Park is the magnet for kayakers, while the more adventurous will be drawn to the outer beaches between Burdwood Bay and Escalante Point.The mountainous scenery makes places like Hisnit and Tlupana inlets interesting to explore, while road-accessible Cougar Creek Recreation Site offers a base for camping and launching.

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 7.The following is an excerpt.

My first visit to Nootka Sound was a warm and sunny paddle in the middle of January.I left Cougar Creek in morning fog, but that burned away into an interesting mist that hung over the nearby hills.I reached Hanna Channel to see an eagle take flight from Camel Rock, the bird framed amid fluffy clouds, mountainous peaks and a meandering ocean channel.It was a picture-perfect moment, one that for me will always define Nootka Sound .

It's not an area without faults for those seeking a wilderness experience.Development dots various protected coves, with houseboats, fishing camps, log sorting facilities and fish farms tucked around every corner.A real sense of isolation can only be found on the outer waters and within Bligh Island Provincial Park and the Spanish Pilot Group.

Any visitor to Nootka should be prepared to face mountainsides scarred by logging.The central charm remains, however.As a result Nootka Sound is growing in popularity as one of the premiere kayaking and travel destinations on the West Coast.The history of Nootka Sound also beckons.This region is the birthplace of modern British Columbia , where Spanish and British explorers vied for trade, where conflicts erupted and where, ultimately, Britain took control from Spain.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking North Clayoquot Sound

Description: If south Clayoquot Sound is the tourist centre for the west coast of Vancouver Island, North Clayoquot Sound is its undiscovered cousin - which the unfortunate exception of Hot Springs Cove, which can be overrun with tourists. There are two ways to transit the northern sound: the inside or the outside of Flores Island. Either route is exceptionally pretty and full of rewards. The entire oceanfront of the north sound is protected, beginning with Hesquiat Provincial Park, then Maquinna Provincial Park, Flores Island Provincial Park and Gibson Marine Park (Whitesand Cove). Strathcona Provincial Park was recently extended to include the east end of Shelter Inlet.

Highlights: There are so many attractions it's hard to recommend just a few places to visit. Whitesand Cove on Flores Island is an obvious and accessible place to visit, but the farther afield you go the more rewarding your journey is likely to be. The oceanfront scenery along Maquinna Provincial Park is stunning, while the beaches at Hesquiat Harbour beckon for a stroll. Both Sidney and Shelter inlets are incredible places to paddle, and the maze of reefs and islets at Sulphur Passage Provincial Park makes for interesting navigation. Whales are common year-round on the outer side of Flores Island.

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 8.

Kayaking South Clayoquot Sound

Description: Tofino is the cultural and economic centre of the west coast of Vancouver Island, and from it springs a variety of tourism-related ventures, most notably water tours from whale watching and ecological tours of Cleland Island to dips at Hot Springs Cove. Meares Island is the dominant island in this region, and has been proclaimed an Ahousaht First Nation tribal park. The Great Cedar Trail on the southwest corner leads to an ancient old tree. Vargas Island on the outer coast sees the majority of kayaking traffic, with most kayakers drawn to Ahous Bay.

Highlights: With so many sand beaches, the outer coast is the draw, with spots to luxuriate upon around Vargas Island and on numerous smaller islands nearby. Cleland Island is the ecological standout in the area as bird nesting site and wildlife refuge. Many of the inner channels are rarely visited, with Bedwell Sound the largest of them. At its head a trail leads across to Strathcona Provincial Park. Popular day trips for novice kayakers lead to Meares Island. Rentals and guided tours are available from a variety of locations in Tofino. Tsapee Narrows makes a great place to paddle if the current is in your favour.

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 9.

Kayaking Barkley Sound and the Broken Group

Description: Ucluelet is growing to rival Tofino as a travel destination on Vancouver Island's west coast, which isn't surprising as it is a gateway to some of the most interesting areas on the coast. The most famous of them is the Broken Group, part of the Pacific Rim National Park. But there are many other areas to explore such as the Deer Group and the various bays and inlets in the region, particularly Pipestem Inlet with its waterfalls and unique warm-water ecology. Bamfield, on the south entrance to Barkley Sound, is the terminus for the north end of the famous West Coast Trail. Wonderful trails lead through the Bamfield area, including to remote Cape Beale. Pachena Bay is a recreational highlight of the area, and a quick way to get to some spectacular open-ocean scenery. Beaches dot the area.

Highlights: The Broken Group has grown to become one of the most popular kayaking destinations in the world, and for good reason. There are placid channels to explore that twist through a maze of island groups; beautiful campsites; lots of wildlife; and interesting features such as blowholes, sea caves and sea arches. The Deer Group is growing as an alternative travel destination, and while not a park it does have some picturesque beach areas for camping. Those who want to explore the periphery will find interesting locations in Pipestem Inlet and Useless Inlet.

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 10. The following is an excerpt.

Barkley Sound is not the largest of the five major sounds on Vancouver Island 's west coast, but is the most open. At 20 miles wide (32 km) and 15 miles deep (22 km), it is sprinkled liberally with distinct archipelagos separated by wide channels. On the leeward side of these islands, conditions can be remarkably calm. Serene passages are rich in intertidal life; protected bays, lagoons and long inlets meander deep into the tallest peaks of Vancouver Island . Exposed areas wave-battered shorelines teem with sea caves, arches and surge channels. There are two distinct sides to Barkley Sound – the Broken Group and the Deer Group – separated by Imperial Eagle Channel. The Broken Group is a maze of more than 100 islands, islets and rocks scattered over a wide area with a reputation as one of the world's most desirable kayaking locations. The Deer Group is also becoming a top tourist destination; visitors are drawn to its rugged shores, with numerous sea caves and a scattering of inviting beaches. Only two communities are located alongside Barkley Sound: Ucluelet to the west and Bamfield to the east. Port Alberni is at the head of Alberni Inlet, deep in central Vancouver Island.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking Juan de Fuca Strait

Description: This stretch of the Vancouver Island coast is unique for its almost perfectly straight shoreline. It lacks the inlets and archipelagos that characterize the rest of the coast, and that makes for an open, wind-blown area to navigate. Most people travel by foot, along the West Coast Trail, or farther south, along the Juan de Fuca Trail. East of French Beach Provincial Park civilization tends to encroach in ever increasing degrees until the suburban community of Sooke.

Highlights: While the West Coast Trail is the traditional route along the coast, it makes an extraordinary place to visit by kayak. Beautiful beaches, lots of wildlife, seclusion and the chance to whip past in a few casual days on the water on what is otherwise a grueling five-day hike. Pachena Bay offers an array of sand beaches, while highlights down the coast are Tsusiat Falls, Clo-oose and Carmanah Point before the shelter of Port San Juan and the community of Port Renfrew, the southern entry to the West Coast Trail. Other places to explore are Mystic Beach, China Beach, Sombrio Beach and French Beach Provincial Park. All are vehicle-accessible by trail.

The complete history, ecology and attractions including travel, launch and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 1, Chapter 11. The following is an introduction to chapter 11 that was not used in the final printed version.

I left the campsite in the Deer Group resigned to the fog. It had been with me almost every morning since Nootka Sound. Timing the crossing for slack tide, I left the sight of land at Edward King Island and set a compass course that would take me to approximately Cape Beale. My only companion was thick fog and a rolling 10-foot swell.

I heard Cape Beale first; the sound of crashing waves indicated I was close to something. I decided to keep the sound of surf to my left; my theory was I would eventually round the cape that way. For the most part it worked. Unfortunately, every so often out of the gloom a shape would appear, and invariably it was swell turning into a Hawaiian-style turquoise-coloured breaking wave crashing onto a hidden reef. It always emerged a little too closely for my liking. But the strategy worked – eventually I rounded Cape Beale without ever seeing it.

Once past the drama of Cape Beale the rest of the coast was relatively serene. A highlight was watching the gray whales at Tsusiat Falls. They were behaving like I had never seen before – staying for long periods in one spot with their tails out of the surface of the water. A half-dozen surfaced around me, some within several feet of my kayak. Nearby was a huge sea arch, just one example of the wonderful scenes that (when the fog lifted) could be seen.

It's not a trip for everyone. Like hiking the neighbouring West Coast Trail, kayaking Juan de Fuce Strait is a considerable challenge. It takes skill, resolve and occasionally patience to wait out bad weather. Fortunately, many portions can be visited casually from launches such as Pachena Bay. Head out a few miles, however, and the coast – and all the adventure it has to offer – will be yours.

- John Kimantas

West Vancouver Island featured articles:

Slipping past Solander - Join Dan Lewis for a trip to the outer reaches of Vancouver Island's most formidable peninsula.

 

 

West Vancouver Island article archive