PADDLe British Columbia's Central Coast

The following is a description of regional overviews drawn from the paddling experiences and personal website of author and Wavelength publisher John Kimantas. Jump to the various regions discussed by clicking on the map. To jump straight to the archive of Wavelength articles on BC's north coast, click here. To find tour operators for this region, click here.

Description

The Central Coast covers from Pine Island, on the north end of Queen Charlotte Strait, to McInnes Island south of Princess Royal Island. Most transit the area along the famed Inside Passage through Fitz Hugh Sound, Lama Passage and Seaforth Channel to points north. To get to the Inside Passage, however, travellers must cross an open stretch of water at Cape Caution. The cape has a reputation as a formidable area to travel. Most routes up the coast lead to Bella Bella, a thriving Heiltsuk community located on the east side of Campbell Island. Rivers Inlet remains a key sports fishing location for the B.C. coast, while Bella Coola, set deep on the end of Burke Channel, enjoys much of the highest mountain scenery to be found on the coast..

Highlights

Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Area protects many of the most interesting locations on the Central Coast, including numerous sand beaches on the outer reaches. Other island clusters within the park, such as the McNaughton Group and Goose Group, also make for wonderful areas to explore. Serviced by B.C. Ferries' Discovery Coast Passage route, travellers can gain access to many otherwise remote areas, particularly as the route includes the option for a kayak drop-off service. Many island clusters make Bella Bella a wonderful place to explore. For those interested in ruins, both Namu alongside Fitz Hugh Sound and Ocean Falls in Dean Channel offer a glimpse at communities left abandoned. The inlets north of Bella Bella offer recreational opportunities rarely used, including picturesque Ellerslie Falls. South of Cape Caution is Nakwakto Rapids, which has a Guinness Book of Records entry as the fastest navigable tidal channel in the world (but don't tell that to fans of Skookumchuk). Penrose Island Marine Park, in Rivers Inlet, is a magnet for both cruisers and kayakers.

Kayaking the Bella Bella region

Description

Bella Bella represents one of the more accessible regions of the coast, thanks to the frequent ferry service to the city and the nearby resort community of Shearwater. Visitors will be blessed with a variety of route choices and island groups. Most paddlers tend to stay around Athlone and Dufferin islands, perhaps extending a visit as far south as Hakai. Few travel to the northern inlets north of Bella Bella, though Ellerslie Bay and Roscoe Inlet are two wonderfully scenic areas (though I give a hardy thumbs-up to Ellerslie Falls). Bella Bella is on the main route for the Inside Passage. Most traffic will run up Fisher Channel through Lama Passage then out of the area through Seaforth Channel. Gunboat Passage is a scenic alternative.

Highlights

The small island clusters are arguably the most interesting to explore in this region. A highlight is the McMullin Group and its beautiful beaches. Others will find the convoluted shore of Dufferin and Athlone islands rewarding. For those who can invest the time and effort, a trip up to Ellerslie Falls at Ellerslie Bay is advised. A trail leads to Ellerslie Lake, a huge body of water surrounded by cliffs and mountains that can be paddled if you can make the portage. Closer to Bella Bella are many wonderful beaches and island groups worth exploring A favourite of mine is Troup Passage north of Troup Narrows, where serene islands dot the area.

The complete history, ecology, attractions and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 2, Chapter 3. The following is an excerpt.

Bella Bella is an anomaly on the coast: a community of about 1,400 people living in an environment without road access deep within a network of islands and channels. It is an area similar to the hundreds of others along the coast that were abandoned by their First Nations inhabitants a century or more ago, and yet Bella Coola continues to thrive in its own quiet way.

The town has never caught the best of tourism in the area. Most of that drifts toward Shearwater, and even the ferry service to Bella Bella misses the town by several miles, landing to the south at McLoughlin Bay . Huge cruise ships pass within several hundred yards of the main dock, but none stop, instead continuing their way to Prince Rupert or other ports of call.

Still, Bella Bella has its own vibrancy, limited mainly to a few blocks just up from the government wharf. It is also the reference point for this region, and the hub for trips that can be as varied as any on the coast. Choices abound: the protected waters of the archipelagos near Stryker Island , the convoluted channels of Gale Passage or Joassa Channel, the white sands of the McMullin Group, the idyllic and historic waters of Troup Passage, or the distant and formidable trips up the northern inlets to incredible mountainous terrain like Ellerslie Falls .

One of the great advantages of this area is the close proximity of all these features – where exotic coastal locations can be found near protected channels, and where routes can be mixed and matched to take advantage of changes in tides or weather. It also means the chance of designing circuits covering various channels and archipelagos.

The possibilities for itineraries are endless. Don't set out with with plans etched in stone, because here you can go where winds, currents or whims take you.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking the Bella Coola region

Description

The channels around Bella Coola are one of the more offbeat locations to kayak, even though a launch is possible without the need for a ferry or water taxi service. There are several challenges to navigating these waters, particularly long distances, winds that can funnel down the passages and currents that can run at a constant ebb. The rewards are a series of attractions from the tallest mountain scenery on the coast to the charm of the ghost town of Ocean Falls.

Highlights

A trip up or down Dean Channel between Bella Coola and Bella Bella is a wonderful way to see some incredible scenery and numerous historic highlights. One is Mackenzie Rock, now part of a provincial park, where Alexander Mackenzie signed his name in 1793 after being the first European to cross North America by land. Hot springs dot the area, with the one at Eucott Bay highly recommended. At the head of Cousins Inlet you'll find the ruins of the once-thriving mill community of Ocean Falls. When the mill closed the city was essentially abandoned, with remains such as a seven-storey concrete hotel left untouched. Scenic diversions are areas like Cascade Inlet, named by Capt. Vancouver for the plethora of waterfalls when he visited. The red sand beach of Sagar Lake at Codville Lagoon is also recommended for a day trip.

The complete history, ecology, attractions and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 2, Chapter 4. Here is an excerpt:

There's something eerie about stepping into a community that has been abandoned – about seeing modern office buildings sitting empty, a seven-storey concrete hotel with trees and vines growing in the foyer, or what should have been comfortable, well-built townhouses vacant and collapsing. That rather apocalyptic image is waiting at Ocean Falls at the top of Cousins Inlet. And it's just one of the many historic and somewhat unusual attractions along this stretch of coast.

Vestiges of civilizations past dot the Bella Coola region. Pictographs are etched on cliff faces. Another ghost town lies hidden in the trees behind Port John. And perhaps most historic of all, Alexander Mackenzie crossed North America to touch the Pacific at a rock near Elcho Harbour – the first European to do so.

The wonderful thing about this region is how all these elements make distinct destinations along the length of Dean Channel. At Eucott Bay you can relax in a hot spring; at Cascade Inlet you can marvel at the waterfalls; at Codville Lagoon a beautiful red sand beach at a freshwater lake awaits.

A visit to this region is most often made by boat, but paddlers can also take advantage of the incredible scenery and many attractions within a short distance of one another. Passengers on the Discovery Coast Passage ferry will also get an opportunity to see this countryside. The best views are on the Wednesday and Friday trips from Bella Coola to Port Hardy.

Because the Bella Coola Valley can be reached by vehicle, this region is one of the more accessible on the coast. It's not a quick jaunt to get here, but the scenery makes it worthwhile.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking the Hakai region

Description

Hakai Luxvbalis Conservation Area is without doubt the recreational highlight of the central B.C. coast. Here you will find twisting passages to explore, intriguing island clusters and beaches perfect for strolling and camping. Thanks to the B.C. Ferries' Discovery Coast Passage ferry service, visiting kayakers can be dropped via a wet launch to otherwise difficult-to-reach areas. Across Fitz Hugh Sound are other attractions, including the ruins of the village at Namu and historic Koeye River.

Highlights

There are a multitude of locations to explore here, with the beaches on the north side of Calvert Island among the most popular. The island groupings around Spider Island make excellent exploration by paddle, as does the more tame McNaughton Group. For the adventurous, the Goose Group has many rewards, including wonderful sand beaches for camping. Visitors can explore the ruins at Namu and stay at a rental cabin while visiting. Koeye River is key grizzly habitat.

The complete history, ecology, attractions and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 2, Chapter 2. Here is an excerpt:

When I arrived at Wolf Beach, the fabled kayaking destination at Hakai, I expected the possibility of a crowd of kayakers. It was, after all, mid-August in the Central Coast 's top kayaking stop.

Once I landed and began to explore, the tracks on the beach told the story. Wolves had been the only recent visitors, and their prints dotted the shoreline.

The next day two kayakers who had been sharing my itinerary off and on since Bella Bella showed up, but otherwise the incredible beaches along north Calvert Island were empty. When we left, Hakai once again belonged to the wolves.

Hakai-Luxbalis Conservancy Area is without doubt the highlight of the central B.C. coast, with a multitude of island groups, forests, mountains, anchorages, meandering inlets, tidal rapids, rarely visited lagoons and pure white sand beaches. Other areas to explore include the wave-battered shores of the Simond and McNaughton groups, the intricate passages of Spider and Hurricane Islands and – if you dare – the sprawling sand beaches of the outer reaches, from the Goose Group to west Calvert Island .

Despite its isolation from the nearest community with road access, Hakai is surprisingly easily accessed. The Queen of Chilliwack will drop off kayakers on its route along Fitz Hugh Sound at strategic points like Kwakshua Passage or Sea Otter Inlet. Lodges such as Hakai Beach Resort cater to backcountry coastal explorers who prefer luxury over tents. Fishing resorts dot inlets and coves.

Other nearby attractions are the icing on the cake. The ghost town of Namu and its cannery ruins beckon explorers. Historic Koeye River is also not to be missed, whether you visit to photograph bears up the river or stay in the comfortable Heiltsuk First Nation-run lodge on the point.

And don't worry about the crowds. There is always space to spare in Hakai.

- John Kimantas

Kayaking the Cape Caution region

Description

Cape Caution earned its name after Capt. Vancouver's ship the Discovery nearly ran aground on a rock near here. It keeps its formidable reputation today as an imposing stretch of open water before mariners can reach the relative safety of the Inside Passage. Rarely a destination of its own, the Cape Caution area has a multitude of attractions, including numerous sweeping sand beaches. Rivers Inlet remains one of the key fishing destinations on the B.C. coast, despite a downturn in salmon. For more on the islands around Port Hardy, see God's Pocket.

Highlights

Nakwakto Rapids, on the end of Slingsby Channel, is a draw for its tidal currents that can run as high as 17 knots - among the fastest in the world. Areas like Burnett Bay have wonderfully long beaches to explore (if you can manage the surf). Smith Sound also has its beaches, particularly at Dsulich Bay. In Rivers Inlet, Penrose Island Marine Park is frequently visited by mariners seeking a safe anchorage, and by kayakers draw to the myriad passages and islands to explore. Fish Egg Inlet is another maze with a rich subtidal ecology that can be viewed at lower tides.

The complete history, ecology, attractions and camping locations for this region can be found in The Wild Coast, Volume 2, Chapter 1. Here is an excerpt:

Every journey has to have a starting point, and for B.C.'s Inside Passage that point is Cape Caution .

The cape itself is really just a small point of land, but it represents so much more – a large region of open coast between the shelter of Queen Charlotte Strait and the southern entry to B.C.'s Inside Passage . It is a formidable area, prone to tumultuous seas and yet renowned for its inviting beaches. Miles of sand can be found here, but most of it is off limits due to exposure to the prevailing weather. It's not a place to linger. Reefs and swell are steepened to a sharp point by the shallow ocean floor, and I can say without reservation it was the most intimidating stretch I have encountered on the B.C. coast. Most other travelers tend to treat Cape Caution as an area to transit, not a destination in its own right. Both mariners and kayakers alike will hurry north to Penrose Island Marine Park in Rivers Inlet, an anchorage with a beautiful clamshell beach and camping area. Smith Island has its own attractions, particularly Dsulich Bay with its string of beaches. Nor can Nakwakto Rapids be ignored as a visual highlight, with its 16-knot currents that place it among the fastest tidal rapids in the world.

Providing access to it all is Port Hardy on Vancouver Island . The city is a launching point, a ferry terminus, the northern limit of the Island Highway and one of the few vehicle-accessible gateways to the north and central B.C. coast.

Cape Caution may be a difficult stretch of coast, but few worthwhile ventures are easy. Navigating it is considered a badge of honour for mariners and kayakers alike, so if you travel past here, wear the badge of honour proudly.

- John Kimantas

Featured article:

Drury Inlet Dreamscapes - by Carol-Ann Giroday / Jan-March 2008

Archived articles:

The BC Interior

BC Marine Parks

For more marine park information, visit here.

North and Central BC coast tour operators:

Coast Mountain Expeditions BC

Our 20th year! Lodge and kayak expeditions in BC's Discovery Islands and Fjordlands. Sheltered ocean, islands & mountains, wildlife tours. Multi-day lodge & camping, marine park daytrips, lessons & rentals. Remote waterfront lodge, B&B kayak hostel on Quadra Island. Phone: 250-285-2823. Email: coastmtn@island.net Web: www.coastmountainexpeditions.com

 

Tantalus Adventures

Join us for an unforgettable seven-day sea kayaking adventure in British Columbia's magnificent Great Bear Rainforest.   Experience the area’s diverse wildlife including humpback whales, coastal wolves, and orca whales.  On guided hikes we will search for the Kermode “spirit” bear found only in this region.

Contact: norm@tantalusadventures.com
Phone: (604) 785-2999
Web:  www.tantalusadventures.com.