Where the Wild Things Are

October-November 2002

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Barb Roy

Passengers had the option of paddling or diving. Photo: Barb Roy

Remember the childhood story, Where the Wild Things Are, with all the friendly monsters living in an enchanted forest where anything could happen? Well I have been to such a place! Beneath the emerald water of Southeast Alaska, where unusual creatures dwell in shipwrecks, surrounded by underwater forests of kelp, along a rugged weather-beaten coastline. Let me take you there, on a journey to this mystic wonderland where awesome sights can be found both above and below the water.

I boarded Mike Lever’s 116-foot Nautilus Explorer on a Sunday night in June for a two-week adventure up the Inside Passage to Southeast Alaska. I brought scuba gear, wildlife guidebooks, camera equipment and my dive kayak. The intention was to explore some of the historical shipwrecks and paddle into as many bays and coves as possible.

During the first night we traveled up Georgia Strait to northern Vancouver Island. Mike wanted to get us north as quickly as possible then take our time once we were past the questionable, weather-dependent stretches. We crossed Queen Charlotte Strait and passed Cape Calvert, setting anchor for two dives in Hakai Pass the next day.

The sun was smiling and the seas were calm after we finished our dives, so several of us decided to go for an afternoon paddle. The Nautilus’ crew was helpful, lowering the kayaks from the top deck. I noticed I was not the only one who had brought my kayak, and for those who didn’t, Mike had plenty of extras onboard.

Loading my camera and extra film into a giant ziplock-style bag, I pushed off from the aluminum dive skiff with the others for a lovely paddle.

Photo: Barb Roy

After we returned to the mothership, Mike pulled into a sheltered bay for a short hike behind the Hakai Resort. Usually I find myself wandering off to photograph flowers and seeking out striking seaside shots, but after discovering large animal tracks in the mud, possibly cougar, I decided to stay close, content with Chocolate Lilies and assorted wildflower/driftwood scenes on the deserted sandy beach.

Soon we were on our way again, passing Bella Bella and pulling into a protected cove near Butedale on Princess Royal Island. Now abandoned, the small portside town, with its single caretaker, waits for weather and time to diminish its skeletal remains. Next to the buildings, a breathtaking waterfall thunders down a breathtaking waterfall thunders down a steep mountain, dividing into hundreds of smaller tributaries as it seeks drainage into the bay.

Half of the 20 passengers chose to go trekking up a trail next to the waterfall, while some got kayaks down and others went for a dive on the wreck of the Transpac. When we returned from our dive, I was surprised to learn one of the hikers had found a type of carnivorous plant, resembling a Venus Fly Trap.

Upon entering Revillagigedo Channel, towering snow-capped mountains outlined the horizon like a protective barrier. Continuing north past Ketchikan, Mike navigated the treacherous Wrangell Narrows, passing Petersburg and several other small fishing communities. I lost count of how many Bald Eagles and species of shore birds we saw. During long jaunts like this, most of us enjoyed the boat’s spacious lounge to plan the next dive or paddle. Andy Lamb, a naturalist from the Vancouver Aquarium, entertained us with his marine life identification and sharp wit.

Before long we entered Frederick Sound. The water was glassy smooth, perfect for paddling I thought. In the distance I could see the lighthouse of Five Finger Island. A splashing sound next to the boat broke my trance. Turning I found Humpback whales blowing a bubble net! Mike slowed the boat to a stop and several fellow passengers scurried by me to grab kayaks for a closer look. It seemed the whales were patiently waiting. I opted to remain on the big boat to collect images with my 300mm telephoto. Although the others never ventured too close to the whales, they seem to amuse the Humpbacks. Before leaving the area, a huge white pectoral fin rose out of the water as if to bid farewell.

South Sawyer Glacier was our next destination. After viewing the glacier up close, Mike asked, “Ok, who would like to play on the icebergs?”

I felt like a kid wanting to raise my hand, along with everyone else. Rather than donning dry suits for a snorkel swim, we launched our kayaks for a little closer view of resting harbour seals on the distant ice. There was barely a whisker of acknowledgement from them, but the beauty of the odd-shaped ice intrigued me and I wondered how ancient it might be.

Soon we pulled into the protected harbour of Juneau (northern entrance), Alaska’s capital city. I joined four others and hired a taxi-van for a tour of the area, including Mendenhall Glacier. Then we were taken into town for a tram ride to the top of Mount Roberts. Our cost, once divided, turned out to be the same as one would pay for a one-way trip into town!

The next day we dove the site where the 245-foot passenger liner, Princess Sophia, tragically ran aground in 1918. Over 350 lives were lost, making it the worst maritime disaster on the Pacific coast. Underwater, the Sophia now wears an attire of colourful invertebrate marine life. We also explored the wreck of the 350- foot Princess Kathleen. Unlike the Sophia, no lives were lost due to a speedy evacuation of her 307 passengers. Both were truly impressive dives.

On our return voyage, Mike once again showed us a new area, Coronation Island. Exposed to the fury of open-ocean, we were held in awe of the island’s sheer cliffs and jagged coastal terrain. I expected to see a flying dinosaur swooping down to check us out at any moment. As the ocean’s powerful swells rocked the Nautilus Explorer, this was also the first time I felt like I was actually on a boat.

Overall, I found the trip very enjoyable because of the professional crew and the select areas we visited. It was also nice to be able to launch my kayak whenever I wanted, then return to the comforts of the mothership.

For more information about the Nautilus Explorer and their Alaskan excursions, check www.nautilusexplorer.com.

© Barb Roy is an outdoor adventure photojournalist living in Vancouver, BC. She travels the West Coast, sometimes with family in tow, exploring the underwater world with scuba gear and topside with dive kayaks.