Destination: Castles, Kilts, and Kayaks

April-May 1995

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

Exploring Scotland's West Coast

by Daniel Robertson

The islands off the west coast of Scotland

It's a bright, sunny day and the clean coastal air fills your lungs and nose with the subtle smell of the sea. Your imagination is afloat with thoughts of the Vikings and Celts who once dominated the area.

As you round a point you take in the landscape-a small stone cottage perched high above soft rolling green hills dotted with sheep. Ahead in the distance you can see the ruins of a large, majestic castle.

A superb, wide open coastline, abundant wildlife population, a colourful history and culture, and not another boater in sight-this is Scotland. The land of whiskey, kilts, bagpipes and a coastline dotted with islands, stunning sea cliffs and secluded sandy beaches, covering over a thousand miles. For a place that occupies such a small part of the globe it really has a tremendous amount to offer curious souls in small boats-from beginner to advanced.

The paddling season begins in May and extends for at least five months. With conditions not unlike Canada's west coast, it has all the ingredients needed for adventure and exploration. In addition there are many inland lochs (lakes) that are as deep as they are long, each boasting their own mysterious past. Most have ruined castles, once home to kings and clan chieftains who ruled the areas. A few even have derelict old churches, architectural masterpieces surrounded by tombstones with epitaphs dating them to centuries past.

Given Scotland's magical past of witches,warlocks, druids and demons, it would be no surprise to find a beast such as the Loch Ness monster lurking in the deep or even to see a ghost high in a castle tower. Nowadays, however, it would be more common to encounter small cottages or farms with friendly locals quietly going about their work tending to fields, flocks, herds and haystacks.

The Islands

Just a few hours from Glasgow on the south west coast lie the isles of Gigha, Islay, Jura and Colonsay. Gigha is a tiny gem of an island with a population of a only a hundred and eighty. Despite its small size, it is rich in archaeological sites including cairns, standing stones and forts. The locals say the name Gigha (pronounced gee-ah with a hard g) is derived from Gudey, meaning "God's island". Among the many religious sites, there are early Christian symbols carved on rocky outcrops towards the island's north end. Off the safe sandy beaches of the south-west coast is the small island of Craro. The "Bull of Craro" is a rock formation on the seaward side that tells a local legend about a boy kidnapped by pirates in the eighteen hundreds. The friendly, welcoming nature of the people combined with the vast history makes it a wonderful place to explore.

Not far to the west are the much larger islands of Islay and Jura. Islay (pronounced eye-la) is one of the largest of the Scottish Islands covering two hundred and forty six square miles. The north end has fantastic coastal scenery that includes caves, raised beaches and massive sea bird colonies. The north-east and south-east parts of the island are uninhabited wilderness and with only occasional tracks they promise peaceful camping.

Throughout the islands you will meet some of the local seal population. They're Atlantic seals, very similar to their cousins in the Pacific-Northwest, and their naturally curious nature will have them follow as you paddle past. The "paps" of Jura, or the three conical peaks dominating the southern half of the island, provide one of the best features of which to navigate by. Jura has been inhabited since prehistoric times and its five thousand red deer far exceed the modern day population of under two hundred humans.

On its north tip you can find one of the largest whirlpools in the world, the 'Corrie-Bhreacan' (pronounced corrie-vreken). This leviathan of the marine world is so large it can be heard for miles around and is easily capable of consuming large vessels. Not a good place to discover you should have brushed up on otherwise weak skills in tide and current predictions! For those with a want for a little more adventure the island of Colonsay (pronounced colon-zee) is about nine miles west of Jura. Its a small island whose size and location, seemingly in the middle of the Atlantic, make it unique among the others. On its easterly side is Kiloran Bay, one of the finest unspoilt beaches in the entire area and all around the island you can see different species of raptor including buzzards, peregrine falcons and golden eagles. With its share of history and friendly people-if not solely because of its location-its worth the paddle.

Four hours north-west of Glasgow lies Oban. Its a small town built around the Atlantic fishing industry and is loosely known as the "gate-way to the isles" . There is an extensive ferry link to most of the off-shore islands including the main islands of Mull and the Outer Hebrides. Skye, a stunning island not to be missed, can be reached via the Outer Hebrides or direct from Mallaig, which is two hours north of Oban. Paddling away from Oban itself is an option as there is no shortage of small islands to hop. However, as is often the case, time may be an issue so the ferries provide a welcome lift to ideal paddling places.

Mull is a large island just off the mainland and with over three hundred miles of coast, sheltered bays and inlets, it's a good place to discover the area's vast marine life, including the huge population of seals who call these waters home. Mull's historical and geographical attractions include a remarkably well preserved 'Dun' (a dwelling or fort) from 200 BC and Ben More, a long since dormant volcano that left it's impression in the bedrock of most of the British Islands.

Perhaps more worthy of mention are some of the tiny surrounding islands like Staffa and Iona. Staffa, off the west coast of Mull, is a seventy one acre mass of hexagonal basalt columns resulting from some of Ben More's volcanic activity sixty million years ago. Landing is only possible in calm seas so watch the weather if you wish go ashore. To the south-west lies Iona, an island of immense religious significance and the burial place of forty-eight Scottish kings. There is an impressive thirteenth century mediaeval church here, built long after the early Christian missionary, St.Columba, founded the first monastery here in 563 AD. Among the historical graves of the kings lies the body of Duncan, a Scottish king who reputedly died at the hands of Macbeth and was immortalized by Shakespeare.

For a taste of something completely different, try a trip to the Outer Hebrides. It's a chain of thirty or more islands off the far north west of Scotland and although their history is amazing, their geography is even better. The exposed western coasts can challenge experienced paddlers while the sheltered eastern coasts will suit intermediates. The land is diverse and unique throughout, with wildlife abundant. In most places the wind blown and battered landscape reflects the harsh weather experienced during the winter months and it's interesting to see how the flora and fauna adapt. This is most easily seen in local trees, their exaggerated roots and stunted growth showing the effects of frequent winter storms.

Many of the islands have what's come to be known broadly as "Hebridean beaches" or locally as "Machair" (pronounced mach-er), gently sloping stretches of sand that rival some of the world's most beautiful beaches and are seemingly out of place in such an environment. Camping among the sand-dunes as the sun slowly sets over the Atlantic generates a feeling inside that can only be captured in this part of the world.

All the towns and villages have their own communities that are distinctive from each other, and although English is widely spoken, the main language is Gaelic (pronounced gay-lic), originating from the dialect of the Celtic people who first colonised here thousands of years ago.

Isle of Skye

If in search of the most dramatic, the most stunning and the most diverse landscape and history in all of the isles, one can look only to Skye. Skye is the largest of the inner Hebridean islands boasting a land mass of five hundred and thirty five miles. Its shoreline is an endless, winding topography of bays, inlets, peninsulas and passes. In the surrounding waters you can find many smaller islands worth visiting, each with its own distinct attractions. Some, like a group just to the south, are colourfully named. Imagine relaxing on Rum, lunching on Eigg or even, if your really lucky, camping out on Muck! (These islands are worth checking out.)

Going back over the sea to Skye (sorry, I couldn't resist!), the unusual lava formations found on parts of the coast include sea stacks, and on clear days the Black Cuillins (pronounced coo-lins)-Skye's renowned central mountain range-can offer a most dramatic backdrop to a day's paddling.

The island remains the heartland of the Gaelic culture on Scotland's coast. By combining modern living with traditional values, offering many museums and supporting a Gaelic college, the local communities hope to keep it alive for generations to come.

The entire coast is dotted with castles and Skye's wildlife is as beautiful and diverse as the rest of the area. Of particular interest are the sea-bird colonies on the western tip whose homes are the towering cliffs below the Neist Point lighthouse.

Etiquette & Safety

While you're paddling through the history books and lost in the natural beauty that is Scotland, it's important to remember a few key points of etiquette and safety. The Scottish people are a friendly, welcoming bunch-particularly on the islands and in small towns-but always observe local traditions and ask permission of near-by land owners before setting up camp.

The local weather is affected by many different influences and, as a result, can change quickly and frequently (hence the Glaswegian saying "If you don't like the weather, wait five minutes!"). This applies mainly to the winter as high pressure in the summer promises fair weather, but watching it closely is always a good idea. V.H.F radios are useful and the local meteorology station provides a phone service, Marinecall, that gives a detailed account and forecast of current weather conditions. There are several places to obtain charts but perhaps of more practical use is the Ordinance Survey map series. In addition to the topographical information, they provide detailed coastal information ideal for kayakers, and include historical and geographical points of interest. Finally, remembering this is the Atlantic ocean, be prepared. Ensure that you have adequate clothing for the possible cold days or nights and carry all the necessary personal safety gear for a trip of this nature.

Ideally, the best way to experience all this would be to arrive with your own folding boats, for ultimate freedom. For some, a rental or a tour company are the only options. As sea-kayaking is not a major industry here, there are few rental agents but you could end up borrowing equipment from a local club! I once needed a paddle and a fellow I called took off his lunch hour to drive to the other side town just to get it for me, no charge!

Contact the Scottish Canoe Association and ask them for any information concerning 'sea-canoeing' (that's what they call it), specifying what you need. They'll send a package containing relevant clubs, rental agents and outdoor centres. They have also compiled data for specific areas of the coast that includes climate and weather trends, tidal movments, access tips, rescue services and restrictions/dangers. They can be reached at Caledonian house, South Gyle, Edinburgh EH12 9DQ. Tel: 0131 317 7314.

If you'd rather have someone else take care of all the details and organisation, then Sea-Explore will be the answer. Their base is a small island two minutes from Oban's town centre that serves the entire coast. Currently the only company operating in Scotland, they provide all types of accommodation from camping to fully catered lodgings and will customize trips to anywhere on the coast. They offer instruction, transportation, support boats and can supply all equipment except wetsuits (Ask the Scottish Canoe Association about rentals). Contact Mark or Caroline Carter at Rudha' Chruidh island (pronounced rue-a-crewy) Kerrera, Oban, Argyll, PA34 4SY. Tel: 01631-563335.

Getting to Scotland

Getting to Scotland has never been easier or more affordable. Several airlines fly daily to London and connections to Glasgow are easily made. Some airlines charge by distance, not destination, so the London to Glasgow flight could be included (provided the shuttle is of the same airline or closely affiliated). You must, however, ask for this specifically when first booking. Air Canada runs direct flights from Vancouver to Glasgow beginning in mid June and continuing through to the end of September. If budget is an issue then check into charter flights. They're often cheaper and run mainly during the summer months.

For any additional information concerning accommodation and places of interest contact the Scottish Tourist Board at 23 Ravelston Terrace, Edinburgh, Eh3 3EU, tel: 0131 332 2433.

In closing I'd like to include one last point: work up a taste for whiskey if you don't already have one-it's their national drink.

Daniel Robertson is an outdoor instructor and guide, with expedition experience on the East Coast of Africa. He will be working with Strathcona Park Lodge this summer, and has big plans for '96-97, as part of an expedition to South America.